Monday, September 28, 2009

Cocina veracruzana



Mexican food is incredible in its rich diversity, and it's too bad that most people in the US think of cheesy enchiladas or dry taco shells filled with ground meat as the best that country offers their bellies. Each region (and sometimes towns) have their own regional dishes and is defined by the local ingredients. At its most authentic it is very healthy, although you can eat at a US Mexican restaurant and probably only get a small side of lettuce (if you are lucky).

I've had the wonderful chance to travel the breadth of the state of Veracruz, a long narrow state with a coast that faces the Caribbean, mountains with coffee and a whole town full of brujos or witches, and beautiful lakes.

The food of Veracruz is as amazing as the state it reflects - a lot of seafood, a cultural blend of Caribbean, African, Indigenous, and Spanish influences. One of my all time favorite Mexican cookbooks is Zarela's Veracruz, which is part travelogue and 100% cookbook.

Many blog posts back I talked about getting two plant starts from a nursery via mail...the hoja santa or holy leaf, which is a popular herb in southern Mexico. No idea what makes it holy, but I suspect there is a good story behind the name. The 2 plants are happily growing the patio, and I finally harvest a few leaves for a Zarela recipe "Pampano en Acuyo." Actually it translates in my kitchen to Red Snapper in Acuyo or Hoja Santa. In Oaxaca it is called Hierba Santa. So many names for a very pretty culinary herb. This easy fish dish is wrapped in foil and chopped up leaves, which are eaten like a green. You add in some onion, garlic, olive oil and jalapeno chiles. Zarela advises only making this dish if you have fresh hoja santa, as there is no substitute for this aromatic herb.

Another factoid about Veracruz for your next Trivial Pursuit game, did you know that jalapeno chiles come from Xalapa, a lively university town in the center of the state?

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